Tuna hushpuppies


Tinned tuna, called tunafish here in the United States which is a bit redundant but we'll let it go, it does distinguish this pre-cooked product with a half-life of a million years, and so an impressive shelf-life, from proper tuna, frozen or fresh. Any of those will do. In fact any seafood will do. Hushpuppies are a Southern thing. They go with a southern catfish fry. The original idea of mine based on catfish fry combined the catfish directly into the hushpuppies and then that was expanded to salmon, then tuna, then pretty much anything. 

The coating for catfish at the Southern catfish fries is turned into a batter and deep fried along with the fish then given to the dogs to shut them up. Of course we dog trainers know that rewarding a begging dog only worsens the behavior but we'll let that go too. It explains how these things came about. The coating for the catfish was a cornmeal base. As hushpuppies became popular and spread, then the idea arose of including actual corn, either fresh, frozen, or canned cream corn. All sorts of flavorings expanded the profile, notably cayenne.  These hushpuppies here include jalapeño. Any capsicum will work. 

Whoever invented tinned tuna was brill-o. A favorite use is tuna fish salad which is sweetened with pickle relish and provided crunch with celery. It is mixed with mayonnaise and includes diced onion. There are a million variations. <--- contains lies. 


I'm showing you this ↓ because I do get a number of visitors from Britain through Google searches, "wot is tinned tuna." Pretty much any food-related search with the word "wot" in it lands here. 


For one tin of tuna I used 1/2 cup frozen corn. This was processed in a mini blender that came as an accessory to an immersion blender. 

This recipe combines tuna fish salad minus the mayonnaise with hushpuppies. It expands the range of corn by including masa harina which is cornmeal ground from corn processed with alkali. So three types of corn; frozen whole corn, corn meal, and masa harina. 
In the days of yore well before maize became the corn we know today, the Spaniards took the New World vegetable they found in Central America back to Europe, but they neglected to take also the process of nixtamalization which was a way of dealing with the undigestible husk using pot ash at the time. Likewise, the general use of maize spread northward through the Americas. Over time, In those areas of North America where native populations became heavily dependent on maize without the accompanying alkali process, all kinds of health problems arose, most notably scoliosis, that did not arise in populations that were not dependent on maize. This is known from archaeological evidence. So the moral of the story is masa harina is better than cornmeal. So go on then and look at nixtamalization for yourself or just accept mah authoritah!


1/2 cup milk. Some hushpuppy recipes call for buttermilk so that its acid will react with baking soda to lighten up the resulting balls. This is regular milk to be faintly soured with cider vinegar. The advantage of vinegar is that it will brighten the fish, besides not having to buy buttermilk and either have it around or eventually waste it. Buttermilk is a pain in the butt. It's not even buttermilk anymore. It's just regular milk that's been acidified, cultured, like yogurt. 



Process the corn and milk to your heart's contentment. Not enough ↑, just about right ↓. 


Hushpuppies usually do not have celery but tuna fish salad does. I'd like to have a little bit of crunch. A single celery stalk is diced finely. 




Jalapeño is nontraditional too, but I want its heat and I do like its flavor. The real heat of the capsicum is in the membrane holding the seeds. One can control the amount of heat by controlling the amount of membrane. I want it all, but I'm a bit neurotic about the seeds. They have to go. It doesn't have to be jalapeño. It could be any capsicum in any form. 







You might be wondering how I convinced the egg to stand up like a gentleman. I abruptly smashed it into the work surface and said, "Behave!"  Its little bottom is crushed. 


Pickle relish to hit the sweet spot on your tongue. Now you just never see this in hushpuppies, but let me tell you, it adds so much to the party in your mouth especially when you're expecting something 100% savory and heavy and  somewhat unctuous from deep-fry,  and it turns out light and bright and even a little bit sweet. But don't overdo it. 


The ingredients that I would like to have in both tuna salad and in hushpuppies go directly into a bowl, you see. The resulting mixture is sloppy wet that must be stiffened sufficiently to roll a ball. 

Regular hushpuppies take more cornmeal than flour but this approach is having  real whole corn processed to mush, and masa harina along with the cornmeal, so three types of corn instead of just one. 

Finally we will stiffen the mixture with dry ingredients, holding off on the baking soda, which is active, and the tuna, which is too tender to mix vigorously. 

We can confidentially add 1/2 cup flour and 1/2 cup cornmeal, but less confidentially 1 full cup of masa harina. The last portion might need some adjustment, possibly two adjustments if the first adjustment goes too far. We're down to teaspoons worth of adjustments back and forth between masa harina and water until we get the desired ball-rolling consistency.  

Now it probably a good time to start heating the oil. 

1/2 cup flour ↓.


1/2 cup corn meal ↓.  This is kernel popcorn ground up at home in a Nutramill. I used to use coffee grinders until I burned out three of them. They were cheap. My new coffee mill is stronger, but I learned my lesson. It's probably not worth it, although it does have the advantage of being 100% kernel, and it sure does taste good. 


1 full cup of masa harina. The cups look the same size but they're not. I left a tablespoon in the photos for size comparison. 


1 teaspoon cider vinegar. The spoon is smaller than the previous spoons shown. 



Okay, here is where the mixture is tested for stiffness ↑ and adjusted with one tablespoon masa harina ↓.


As it turns out, the mixture is now too stiff so it was adjusted with about 1 tablespoon of water. But then that made it too loose again so it was adjusted back with 1 teaspoon of masa harina. Finally, it seemed about right. 

Just two more ingredients, baking soda to react with the cider vinegar, and the tuna which is too tender to add before all this vigorous mixing. 


Houston, we have activation. 

This baking soda/cider vinegar combination will prevent our hushpuppies from being little rocks. Most of the expansion will occur in the bowl, but some expansion will occur in the hot oil. We can expect a few hushpuppies to break open as the outer shell sets before the internal hushpuppy full expands. 


If you are more clever than I am, you can use two spoons to form quenelles and drop them into the oil directly from the spoon. Alternately, you can wet your hands, form a little ball, and drop the ball into flour, cornmeal, or masa harina, or breadcrumbs, then into the oil. I form three or four balls and drop directly into the oil. By then my hands become quite gloppy with mixture which makes forming balls nearly impossible so it's a constant necessity to rinse my hands in order to continue making balls. So the balls end up frying in batches of three or four at a time. I'm a klutz, you could probably do better. 




Man, oh man, these are good. I'd be happy to serve these anytime, anywhere. 

I'm slumming it over here though. I'm having these with catsup because I'm too lazy to make a decent sauce. Even plain lemon would be great. I think I would go with cucumber/yogurt tzatziki type of thing if I was feeling just a little more industrious. 

Chile rellenos, red chile sauce


I've opened a pound tin of mild Hatch chiles, so it's going to be chiles chiles chiles around here for a few days. 

This morning it was a tossup between an omelet filled with a chile, or egg-style battered rellenos. Either way it would have eggs. Both would take a red chile sauce. Rellenos won.

I never did this before because they are not my favorite type to have out even though they are the more authentic version. The coating for the chile can be mostly egg, or crisply breaded, or lightly battered, or as we've seen in the previous post, completely gone off the rails with egg-roll wrappers which is my preferred method.

This made a complete mess out of my just cleaned kitchen. I do not recommend it. The whites of three eggs were whipped incompletely. The three yolks combined with two teaspoons flour and 1/4 cup milk. Seasoning is ground cumin, ground cilantro seed, garlic powder, salt and pepper. The yolk batter lightened with the incompletely whipped whites. The chile stuffed with cheese is dunked in the lightened batter and scooped out and placed into shallow oil. Three fourths of  the entire batter was discarded, so a bit of waste there. The stuffed chiles in their puffy batter cook very quickly. Too quickly. They could use a little more time for the cheese inside to melt 100%. 

These are not bad at all, the batter not the least heavy. The tinned Hatch chiles are slightly smaller than regular fresh grocery poblano or Anaheim chiles that are singed and peeled stovetop. Using floppy tinned chiles is a bit weird but a very convenient shortcut. The light batter that I used tended to drip off so the chiles were dipped and scooped full-handed and the whole thing, handful of batter containing a stuffed chile is gently placed on top of the oil. The chile tends to sit there in a pile of foamy batter. I wasn't sure it was going to work but it did work just fine. (I still prefer the egg roll style, and that's just wrong.)

None of this is shown below because the whole work area was too messy to deal. Messy hands coated with batter and rapid cooking both preclude mucking about with lighting and camera. It can be done, yes, and maybe I will, but not today. 

I'm not giving up on non egg-roll wrapper rellenos. There is still the breaded version to try as well as the virtual relleno omelet. 

[Why do I have to teach spellchecker the word relleno? Come on, get with the program already.]

Red chile sauce is easier than I'm making it out to be. Usually just one type of dried red chile is used.  The chiles are opened and de-seeded, then quickly pan fried to sort of activate their oil and flavor. They soften, they become less brittle. Water is added along with salt and pepper. Boiled for a brief 10 minutes. Processed. Forced through a not so fine strainer. The straining is a critical to the smoothness of the sauce, although a bit tedious, it is a step not to be skipped. Olive oil added to finish.

This red chile sauce uses a variety of dry chiles. This is not standard. The inclusion of a single dry chipotle pepper created an exceedingly smokey sauce. There is very little capsicum heat. The flavor of the sauce is complex, the capsicum heat gentle. The flavor is rounded with roasted garlic, cumin, cilantro, and Mexican oregano, black pepper and sea salt. 







I'm bad. I prepared a topping to smother these rellenos as Americans are wont to do. Conceptually, that is just so obscene. The chile is already stuffed, relleno means stuffed in Spanish, and now it is smothered too. Stuffed and smothered. 

Stuffed and smothered. 

The thing that makes me bad is I really smother it. I smother is so much it's unsightly and does not photograph attractively. A photo would never make it in the food porn business. So I photograph it then go back and fix the plate as I will have it. I do this all the time. I fix a plate in accordance to my food stylist intuition, impulses and proclivities, photograph the subject as if that's the way I'm having it, then load the plate with the way I'm really having it.  Like this:


I'm a growing boy, what can I say? 

Okay, so there's that. How 'bout something entirely different and unrelated to food? 

Would you like to see a pop-up card I made for a friend? This took two days and I gave it one shot. Any problems that arose would just have to be fixed. No going back, no starting over, no trials or prototypes or little tests. The background that was started is the background that was used. Any mess would just have to stay. 

Chile rellenos, egg roll style



These are far from authentic, but I sure do like them. 

My first apartment when I was seventeen was a super place. Exploring the neighborhood, I discovered a Mexican restaurant nearby. I had no idea what anything on the menu was. I didn't know the difference between a tortilla and a burrito so I ordered things without knowing what I would get. Chile relleno was one of the last things I tried. They prepared them this way with egg roll wrappers. It's entirely wrong, but I didn't know that. It's what I learned first so it's what I thought chile rellenos were. They became my favorite things with their red chile sauce and smothered in onions and tomato and lettuce. Later when I had authentic rellenos with a fresh egg coating it came as a surprise. I didn't care for them as much and it took awhile to acquire a taste for them. 

For real rellenos you'l want to use fresh poblano chiles and roast the skins off them and de-seed them. Fill with a Mexican cheese. One approach for the coating is to separate eggs, beat the whites, mix in the yolks. (I would be inclined to prepare a batter.) Flavor however you wish. Dust the chiles with flour and coat with the egg and then shallow fry.  

These are much simpler. I didn't bother tonight with a sauce.  My only regret is these chiles are mild. They have great flavor, but they need to be enhanced with another chile type for capsicum heat.


Wedges of cheese are cut from this block and inserted into the chiles. It melts wonderfully and stretches ridiculously like mozzarella. 

The name Queso Quesadilla doesn't even make sense. Cheese little cheese things. (¿)


Here we have the collision of Asia and Central America. I use the won ton version of these wrappers along with diced jalapeños for hors d'œuvre poppers. Modern life is wonderful innit. 


The cheese is stuffed inside the chile. 



If the cheese leaks when it melts you'll hear it in the oil. Remove immediately, they'll be done anyway and it makes a huge and dangerous mess if left in. It cannot always be avoided even with complete sealing. 

These things are great. Since I have the egg roll wrappers opened, and the pound tin of chiles also opened, I'll undoubtedly be having these over the next few days. Maybe I'll make up a batch and freeze them. 

Potato chips and bean dip


Potato crisps elsewhere in the civilized world, here, these are cut a little bit on the thick side because I will use them to scoop a flavorful bean sludge mixture. The bean dip is the bean soup made earlier. It thickened somewhat in the refrigerator while stored and that suits my purpose fine. 

The dip needs heat so a fresh jalapeño is added. Tinned jalapeño would do, as would any other form of capsicum heat, powdered, flakes, dried whole, I've got a ton of it over here, I tell you. Maybe ounces. I buy it here and there on impulse just to have the odd chiles around. As a matter of fact, I just now picked up three packages of various dry chiles with no immediate purpose in mind. I'm sort of eager to tear into the packages and see how they are. Maybe I will. Just open one and put 'em in an omelet or something to gauge their effect. 

Did I mention the seeds that I planted from grocery store chiles grew and matured and now I put the plants out on the balcony to get full on sun and toughen 'em up. They both flowered like crazy but the flowers keep falling off so they don't have very many chiles, still, they're fun to watch. I'm hoping the wind will help them pollinate themselves and crank out a few more chiles. They are nearing the end of their cycle. They are annuals. But they can be forced into behaving as perennials. The odd thing is, in the north they are annuals but in their Central America home countries they are perennials. FACT !


The potato slices were rinsed in cold water to rid them of surface starch and then dried before being dropped into hot oil. 



Salted while vulnerable with powdered gray sea salt, low in sodium and high in minerals, and mmm-mmm-mmm, boy is it ever good. 







I read in fifteen different places today of a study by the New England Journal of Medicine that ... okay FINE! ... four different places today, 121,00 people were studied for 20 years, and eating one serving of potato chips a day adds 1.28 pounds over four years. 3.35 pound gain for one daily serving of French fries. Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha aaaaah.

Please.

Come on. Like 121,000 people actually ate Fries and crisps every single day for four years. 

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