Carl's sourdough and Happy Cow™ cheese



[This is a post made a long time ago. I noticed it idling in draft so I hit publish and that brought it to the top instead of where it belongs]

Carl Griffith, bless 'im, MHRIP.

I dun my Carl's sourdough culture wrong, I did. Left it to languish for too long in the refridgerator. It's like a little pet, and it doesn't like that. Then I impatiently rushed it back into production too fast, without the necessary time required to bring the whole thing back to full bloom. Even so, although its rise can be improved, its taste  cannot be beat. So I won't complain here, just marvel at the robust stability that is Carl's 1847 Sourdough starter.

I just now read online that sourdough cultures eventually take on aspects of their new environment because organisms are present in flour and in the air so eventually the culture becomes diluted. This is true. In fact those wheat-borne and airborne organisms are easily cultivated, but it leaves out an important fact: yeast cultures contain organisms  in multitudes and they both coexist and compete with each other in a miniature war until finally achieving some kind of settled victory. Some organisms, for one, Lactobacillus sanfrancisco, are seriously vigilant little soldiers and do not tolerate contamination and aggressively attack. The strain does not play well with others.  They're ethnocentristic little bastards and do not allow mixed unions. So a culture of San Francisco style sourdough will indeed retain it's unique characteristics over time. This is my experience. 

Truth is, San Francisco sourdough is distinct from a culture collected at nearby Antioch immediately NE of San Francisco but not at seaside and not shrouded in daily fog. The combination of airborne organisms in the two places differ significantly.

Incidentally, the Antioch culture that my brother collected for me is my favorite of all time. It's a story in itself told here on these pages. The culture is noticeably more virile and bakes to a thinner crust than the SF culture I own, which is among my least favorite, and I've had SF sourdough culture five times. I still have some but never use it. Apparently, SF culture had a better marketing director.

The culture I collected on Maui is also more virile than SF. It was collected in just a few windy hours and fed it initially with flour purchased on Maui but originating from who-knows-where. The baked bread has a different, slightly tan color, even though it's been fed repeatedly with flour purchased in Denver ever since, but also with an unknown origin.  It's been years now and it remains uniquely Maui  with distinctly different flavor and with noticeably thicker crust than all the cultures I've owned to present.

I've collected airborne culture in Denver dozens of times that differ from culture collected from flour milled at home from wheat grain scooped from the bins at Whole Foods, with an unknown origin, which differs from culture cultivated straight from sacks of flour purchased elsewhere, also with unknown origins, and these differences have held through prolonged storage in wet, dry and frozen forms. Such is the awe-inspiring spectacle  of sourdough culture performance. So go ahead and order some culture from the internet, or better yet, collect and cultivate it yourself, it only takes a few days. Revitalizations from culture-slumber handled  with an sense of population concentrations protect the unique characteristics of the culture.

Now, on the other hand, if you were to take a tiny amount of weakened starter and use it to inoculate a large amount of flour that will have robust but inert organisms of its own, well then, that's a different matter altogether, an ah pity da foo who don't understand the deal going on with yeast culture armies.

Look at it this way, and I'll just guess here and exaggerate at numbers in order to beat the point. After the point is taken, then disregard the numbers because nobody really knows for sure and the numbers here are for show. When you bring a culture into full bubbling activity the number of organism in a cup or so is in the billions and billions, as Sagan would say. By contrast, the number of organisms in the air and on the grain and in the flour and on your hands is in the millions. The full-blown bubbling culture then  is like the population of China X 100 overwhelming the population Tibet. Whatever manages to survive such an onslaught will be completely overwhelmed. Even a weak and exhausted culture contains a greater concentration of organisms than the surface organisms on flour or the air.

When restarting a languished and weakened culture do so with a tiny amount of flour possibly sugar, then once started up, double the additions increments as you proceed so that the concentration of original culture always overwhelm whatever organisms are introduced. There is scant chance any noticeable alien trait will contaminate the purity of a protected culture.  I can not be any more clear than this.

I can reaffirm, this bread up there ↑ tastes uniquely of Carl's 1847 Oregon trail, it's quite strong tasting, actually, because it has proofed for so long, even though the culture was weakened by prolonged damp storage and then fed with flour that contained its own organisms. Even though weakened by neglect, Carl's culture still overwhelmed them. Poor things, didn't stand a chance.

That'll be my story then and I'm stick'n with it.

Watermelon, mint, salt


If this signals the end of summer then I am glad summer is gone. 

Old. Exhausted. Smells of refrigerator. Even mint and sea salt cannot save it, but then the mint is on its way out too, and that's the best of it. The whole thing puts me off, but I only managed half of it. 

And so let this be a lesson!  About something. 

French fries


The potatoes in the bin were exceptionally long so I put a few in my basket with no particular immediate purpose. 


The potato is trimmed into an imperfect block.

The potato block is cut into long planks.

The potato planks are cut into boards.

The potato boards are parboiled in water.

The partially cooked potato boards are frozen.


The potato is removed from overnight cell-destroying cryogenic storage. 


Still frozen, the potato sticks are dumped into hot oil.  

The temperature of the oil drops due to being iced by frozen potatoes so the heat is kept on high through the violence. The crackling and popping subsides and the temperature of the oil slowly rises. By the time the temperature rises back to ideal frying temperature the potatoes are pretty much dehydrated and done.


I'm still not completely happy with these. 

You know what I think is part of the problem? Can you imagine picking up your box of McDonald's French fries, taking it over to a table and photographing it from different angles, various camera settings, lighting, moving things in and out of the picture, messing around with available light? Well they tend to go cold, the fries do. But I see no happy answer to the problem of photography before consumption destroying the thing being photographed and consumed. Obviously, if I scarf the French fries while they're hot from the oil then there would be nothing to photograph and I would be unable to pursue my artistic impulses. The answer is two batches, one to be photographed and the other consumed, but profligate handing of food is unacceptable and I'm just not going to do that. Cold fries. See, the sacrifices I make to satisfy compulsion and the internal conflict I accept for ART? 

Pita with cheese, serrano, onion, capers


I almost didn't bother with this, making it or showing it. I am simply not hungry lately and the whole thing is a bit forced. Having said that, I tore off half of one of the pitas that were made yesterday and dressed it up half-heartedly and it turned out to be 10x more delicious than I had imagined possible. 

I used a slice of individually wrapped American cheese. I bought it just to be masochist. I heard Bobby Flay say about making hamburgers, "It has to be American cheese." This struck me as exceedingly odd, and yet here it was from the author of a book on hamburgers, and an Iron Chef besides. I think that American cheese is the kind of thing that is not all that outstanding on its own but combines well with other things. Plus there is good American cheese and indifferent American cheese. This is indifferent American cheese. That it is so delicious in combination here astounds me. The trick was to let the cheese go a little bit toasty as well as the pita. It's sort of like a Mexican pizza. 

Tinned serrano chiles were opened previously and stored cold. 


Horrible, isn't it?

Oh the depths we sink. I'm starting to feel mad at myself for being so pathetic. I put it in the oven thinking that I didn't have to eat it if I didn't want to. Then it turned out I wished I had cooked the whole pita and not just half of it. The amount was determined by the prepackaged individually wrapped slice of cheese, which is just flat weird in my opinion but kind of fun. 






Eggplant, pita, homemade tahini


Baba ghanoush is a favorite word of a Japanese television show presenter. He keeps using the word without relevance because the sound of the word is funny, especially when persistently overused inappropriately. I have to admit it is rather funny even without knowing what baba ghanoush is, we expect the presenter doesn't know either. For some reason I visualized something exotic and lumpy. 

I was disappointed to search baba ghanoush images and realize it's all just brown sludge. The ingredients look the same as for hummus except eggplant is substituted for chickpeas. The homogeneity made me unhappy. My version would be different.  

Need pita.


Pita dough:

*  1 cup warm water
*  1/2 teaspoon dry active yeast
*  1/2 teaspoon sugar
*  3 cups A/P flour
*  1 level teaspoon salt

Mix everything except salt and half the flour. This produces a wet spongy environment with sufficient fast food to thrill any self-respecting yeast cell out of stasis. The sponge becomes alive and smells of fermentation, it coheres in a stringy mucus-y fashion, the salt and remaining flour is added and a proper dryer dough ball is formed. 



Hours elapsed. Oh, let's say two hours, I don't know for sure, time's not my bag. 


We're not worried about the dough rising to double as with regular bread. Pita is closer to pizza bread. It uses leavened dough, but it goes into the oven in smashed form unconcerned about it rising as bread rises. When baked, fried in this case, an internal bubble forms by moisture turning to steam between two thin dough skins that are two bread disks connected at the rim and that can be cut into and filled. Here we are ignoring that useful property of pita and using it as ordinary flour tortillas. 





One small eggplant. This is a single serving


Problem: Both baba ghanoush and humus call for tahini, a sesame seed paste, and I don't have any. 

About a year ago I was curious about tahini, needed for hummus, so I bought two jars and compared them. One was better than the other but neither was very good. I expected tahini to taste profoundly of sesame but it tasted more like peanut butter. They seem interchangeable to me. 

Toasted sesame seed oil is a lot stronger than sesame seed paste. 

Better to use peanut butter + toasted sesame seed oil for increased sesame seed flavor.

I processed toasted sesame seeds to tahini twice. One of my tahini was more flavorful than the other. Both were better than the commercial varieties by about 100%. The reason I made two is because I didn't know the difference between husked sesame seeds and unhusked sesame seeds. 

Whole Foods provides bulk bins for both husked and unhusked sesame seeds. They look exactly alike without a magnifying glass. Oddly, the staff that day could not answer: Does 'husked' mean the seed has retained its husk or that the husk has been removed? Does 'unhusked' mean the seed is huskless, or that the seeds have not been processed? One was slightly more expensive than the other so I took that to mean they were processed further. 


Whatever I decided that day, the seeds I brought home were unhusked, husked as a verb, they were unprocessed and so still had their husks, but I did not know that. I toasted them. They smelled extraordinary in the pan. I blended the seeds in a jar with an emersion blender. They absorbed the olive oil immediately. I added more olive oil. The seed husks absorbed it. 

So I added more olive oil. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the oil. 

So I added more olive oil. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the oil.

So I added more olive oil. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the oil.

So I added more olive oil. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the oil.

So I added more olive oil. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the oil.

So I thought, "Dude, this seems like a lot of oil" But the mixture is still way way way too thick so I added water instead of oil and the husks immediately absorbed it. 

So I added more water. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the water.

So I added more water. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the water.

So I added more water. The sesame seed husks immediately absorbed the water.

So then I thought, "This is ridiculous," and I stopped. With all that olive oil and water, it is still the most delicious tahini I have ever tasted. Far better sesame-tasting than any commercial I've tried, and I suppose it is worth the effort. 

But wait, there's more!  Now that I know the difference between husked and unhusked, I did it again with the husked sesame seeds. Those seeds absorbed a lot less oil and water, but the tahini didn't taste quite as rustically authentic. 

Almond butter is the same sort of thing. All three taste and behave similarly, tahini, peanut butter, almond butter. 


I do want sesame seed flavor in this and I do have sesame seed oil which is quite strong, but instead I toast about 1/4 cup of husked sesame seeds.



Molcajete. 




This smashed sesame seed is moist and grainy. You can see how easy this is. With just a little bit of olive oil, BANG, dayitiz, tahini. 


This eggplant with tahini is surprisingly good. I used onion. The fresh tomato is a nice touch. We cannot call this baba ghanoush because it is not homogenous brown sludge. 

Eggplant:

*  eggplant, sliced in half and singed one way or another as chiles are singed. Baked upside down to soft. Scraped. Skin discarded. 
*  diced onion
*  crushed garlic
*  olive oil
*  salt / pepper
*  cumin
*  dry chile flakes 
*  tahini (Or anything along these lines, sesame seed oil is a good option) 
*  lemon juice
*  cilantro, basil, herb of your choice.

Conclusion:  Delicious. Could use chiles. 

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