Showing posts with label mung bean sprouts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mung bean sprouts. Show all posts

Kombu dashi



Kombu is a seaweed widely used in Japanese cooking. It is high in glutamic acid which is the original source of MSG. It is the origin of the concept and the word umami. Both the word umami and MSG were invented by the same guy who made quite a lot of ¥ off the whole MSG thing, containing as it does a lot of umami and its ability to enhance the flavors of other foods and to impart its own umami. Is that circular, or what?

Kombu is one of the three main ingredients in the preparation of dashi, a seafood flavored soup stock used as the base for hundreds of other dishes. Fine, a whole lot of other dishes. A piece of kombu is broken off and wiped clean before being added to water. It's not actually boiled, rather, the water is brought to a boil and the kombu steeps for about 10 minutes or so, possibly simmering, then removed. It swells and becomes flexible. At that point it can be cut into strips and added back to dish. It can also be pickled or added to salads. It has a pleasantly dense but not rubbery texture that is resistant to the bite. It's prepared similar to tea.

Bonito is a skipjack tuna that is dried then shaved into flakes. It too is added to the water, imparts its flavor, then is strained out. Or not. You can eat it if you don't mind the little flakes floating around. Some powdered bonito dissolves entirely.

I'm experimenting here with dried anchovies. They are roughly chopped and added along with the bonito. Strained them out with the bonito. Didn't notice much effect at all. Next time I'll use more and let them steep longer. Frankly, I'm not sure what they're intended for or how to use them.

The rest of the ingredients are easily recognizable.

Not pictured: soy sauce, saki, mirin, the three standard things.

The noodles are a cellophane rice noodle.

Not used: chile flakes, curries, or any of the other usual suspects.

Sukiyaki




There's something about beef stock with soy sauce, mirin, and saki that is addictively delicious. Add to that flavors imparted by these vegetables and you're transported to heaven temporarily, if heaven has food which I rather doubt. Hey! It's a metaphor, a'ight?

If you don't have soy sauce then use tamari. If you don't have tamari then use salt. If you don't have mirin then add a little sugar. If you don't have saki, then fine! Just forget it. No wait, you can use sherri or a white wine. The point is to enhance the broth with body and with a little sweetness.

Normally, the ingredients are cooked together in a cast-iron pot with a tight-fitting wooden lid. The only pots I could find were cheap piddly crap that I didn't want around so instead, I gently cooked the items separately in the broth holding them together within a large slotted spoon similar to a spider except not as spidery. It was sort of a pain in the butt doing it that way but my impatience ensured no item was overcooked and others not at all. One by one I cooked each item in the broth nestled in the slotted spoon then placed the separated items into the serving bowl. Finally, poured the enhanced broth over the separated piles. That's one thing I like about sukiyaki is everything is in a separate pile inside the bowl instead of being all mixed up.

Two types of noodles are generally used for sukiyaki:

1) Harusame made from potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice or mung bean starch. Closely related to cellophane noodles which can be substituted.

2) Shirataki made from devil's tongue plant mosty composed of a dietary fiber called glucomannan and contain very few calories and carbohydraes, sometimes even zero. Not much flavor but absorb flavors well. Can also be made from konjac flour. (From the roots of konjac plant, yam-like, grown in Japan and China)

Pacific Market has hundreds of types of Asian noodles, an entire aisle plus more scattered around the store. None of the packages said in English "harusame" or "shirataki." This proved to be a bit of a problem so I winged it. The shirataki-like noodles I bought were in the refrigerated section and they're packaged wet. They look like squishy worms. They can be purchased yellow, snow white, or black, which really isn't black at all but gray with black dots. That's the kind I got because they seemed the most interesting. I'm using Chinese cellophane rice noodles for the harusame. All the packages said in English, if they said anything at all is, "rice vermicelli," "rice noodles," "bean noodles," "yam noodles," or some such. This caused me unnecessary distress and confusion. Just get rice noodles of your choice.

The store I went to has mushrooms like there's no tomorrow. Huge bags of dried mushrooms of every grade and sort. Odd things you never heard of. Fresh mushrooms that are considered exotic and expensive in Western markets. They have everything except the ordinary button mushroom or portobello, or baby portobello that I'm used to seeing. I went nuts. I got a whole bunch of stuff except for the tree oysters which I thought I'd just not get around to before they turned to slime. (I already have ordinary mushrooms that I must use before they're wasted)

* fresh bamboo sprouts that you pull out of a tub of water like a salad bar.
* fresh mung been sprouts that are sold in huge bags, like I'm really going to eat all those.
* spring onions
* shredded carrot (cut on a lethal Japanese Benriner slicer)
* tofu marketed as "pressed bean curd" it's much more compacted than extra-firm tofu. It's the same thing except much less water.
* shitaki mushrooms
* enoki mushrooms (enokidake, snow puff, golden, velvet stem)
* napa cabbage (wom bok, baechu, hakusai)


* beef broth -- carton 365 Whole Foods brand, I'm a little bit surprised how weak this broth is. It really needs the help of saki + mirin + soy sauce + juice from pre-cooking beef

* saki -- I really do not care for saki. This took some doing. There is only one type I ever had that I could stand and that was at a restaurant, and it was only good after the first few sips burned through. I called the restaurant. They were closed. Went to Argonauts which is a huge liquor store thankfully nearby. The people there are totally ace. They went online as I had done earlier but found the restaurant's saki list which I failed to find earlier. We called the restaurant from the liquor store (the number was still in my Blackberry). The liquor store cooperated extravagantly to ensure I was satisfied. I was amazed how packed the place was for a Sunday, oi, and how excellent the service.

* mirin -- the sweet kind, not the gross kind, if in doubt, use sugar.

* beef top round sliced as thin as possible -- kind of tough although fabulously flavorful. I couldn't help but eat it while it was frying even though it was a little too tough for sukiyaki. Fried first to brown, then pressure cooked to tenderness. Overdid the pressure cooking and it became too tender. See? It's a fine line there. The thing is, UPS came right when this was going on. A very attractive and engaging bird is substituting over Christmas for the regular sour bloke so naturally I was distracted. I showed her my aquarium all cleaned up, my prototype pop-up cards, we talked about her upcoming road trip etc., anyway, the pressure cooker went longer than intended. So there's that.

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