Showing posts with label pasta carbonara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pasta carbonara. Show all posts

Spaghetti carbonara, breakfast




 




After the pasta is cooked and removed, vinegar is added to the pasta water that forces the egg albumen to pull together. Albumen does not spread in acidulated water. No need to swirl the water. The water needn't boil to cook the egg. Egg white begins cooking at 144℉ and egg yolks finish at 158℉, well below boiling. the eggs continue cooking until both white and yolk are denatured completely and then beyond, the tightening molecules squeezing out moisture, the extent of their doneness is a function of time. 

That means, left in hot water even well below boiling the eggs will continue to cook, the yolk harden, and there goes your lovely liquid egg yolk sauce. So get the poached eggs out of the hot water. If you must hold the eggs for any length of time they can be lifted into chilled water to stop the cooking, and reserved for as long as you like, then reheat the poached eggs by placing them back into hot water for only long enough to warm them, and that's it, or else they will resume cooking. In this manner you can manage a breakfast for quite a large group and serve everybody at once.

The egg yolk is lifted out of the water with a regular serving spoon, a bit larger than a soup spoon but either size will do, no need for it to be slotted. The scraggly white portion hanging off the spoon is cut using the edge of the spoon as a blade against the inside of the pot. Being so tender the white cuts easily and drops right off into the water. It is an effective way to trim excess white. That is how poached eggs are shaped so beautifully. Try it. It's fun.

Pasta carbonara


* Either bacon, pancetta, or guanciale, is heated in oil with cracked black pepper

* Pasta is boiled to al dente.

* Egg and Pecorino Romano are mixed together and then held in reserve to combine at the end with the pasta and the pork to form a gently cooked sauce. 




Bacon fat and pasta is gross by itself. Only few teaspoons, if even that, of bacon fat is reserved but combined with a greater amount of olive oil, up to a few tablespoons full. 

In a fit of insanity I included chopped onion and jalapeño. I am not using any garlic because I do not feel like messing with it and I do not care for the taste of it today. You will not see onion and jalapeño in any reasonable recipe, but I am suiting myself and not shooting for any Michelin stars here. 




The eggs were brought out of refrigeration and rapidly brought up to room temperature by soaking them in hot tap water. In this way the whole eggs still in their shells are tempered to room temperature. That way, the heated pasta will not meet with cold egg. The egg is expected to partially cook and to form a sauce without scrambling or fully cooking. See, eggs do not go:

uncooked --> uncooked --> uncooked --> ding!  completely cooked.

Rather, it's a process that occurs along a curve. They go:

uncooked --> nearly cooked --> thickened --> cooked --> overcooked.

The aim is to use the heated pasta itself to provide the heat necessary to partially cook the egg to a thickened state, so it helps to have the eggs already warmed up. 



This room temperature egg and cheese mixture awaits the heated pasta and ham with pepper. 


I read on internet pages that British, French, American, Canadian, Australian, Japanese, and Russian cooks tend to include cream. I have cream but chose not to use it. I did not want to dilute the eggs, and that seemed a little too close to Alfredo. 

I read further that some include peas or broccoli for color, and sometimes even mushrooms. But that is getting into primavera territory. But I am glad that I noticed that people add peas. I would not have thought of that myself, and it seemed like a very good idea. It turns out they are great. I have never been a big fan of peas, and I cannot explain this anti-pea bias. How did I become an antipeaite? I do not know. Maybe it is the way they roll around all over the place. Or the way they must be individually stabbed to line up on the tines of a fork. Maybe I was force-fed Gerber's Pea Baby Food as an infant and formed a recalcitrant mental block early on. Whatever the case, they sure are delicious now. 





The trick, and it is a bit of a trick to combine the hot pasta combination into the egg and cheese mixture without scrambling the eggs or conversely end up with raw eggs, is to gauge the two temperatures being combined. The eggs are already at room temperature and not cold. The pasta is hotter than boiling water as it has just been turned in heated oil. The cook can test with a sample of pasta and observe the effect when dropped into the egg and cheese mixture. Should the egg that touches the pasta immediately scramble, then the cook can stir the sample into the egg which then tempers the egg/cheese slightly. The next portion transferred can be lifted higher allowing a few seconds to cool by the airlift transfer, the cook can pause, do a little twirl, dance the lambada there in the kitchen for a few seconds while holding the pasta aloft. The point is to judge the heat of the pasta and the effect it has on the egg before dumping the entire mass one into the other. 

Behold the magic and wonder of faintly cooked egg.



Cilantro and parsley


Cilantro and parsley are not ingredients of carbonara. Nevertheless, today I feel like using both of them, since I have them both and because I would like to have the chlorophyl freshness they impart. This forfeits the authenticity of my carbonara but I do not care. 

There are a couple of ways to store bunches of fresh herbs like this that help extend their useful life. One way is to wrap the entire bunch in damp paper kitchen towels then wrap that wet bundle in plastic. Another way is to treat the bunch like a floral bouquet and provide them a little vase with water, here a plastic drinking cup. The bundle in its cup is covered with the plastic bag in which the bunches were brought home so that the dehumidifier within the refrigerator does not dry them out. In the refrigerator the bunches abide in darkness and this makes me feel sorry for them. To satisfy myself, and to possibly help the plants try to live a little in light instead of dying slowly in darkness, I bring them out into the light for a few hours during the day. It makes me feel better. But I keep them covered because it is so dry where I live, they hopelessly wilt otherwise without a retentive plastic covering. 


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