Showing posts with label risotto. Show all posts
Showing posts with label risotto. Show all posts

Risotto with sausage


[This was published 8 years ago the end of May, 2011. When I updated the post to replace photos from Photobucket to Blogger it was moved to the top instead of its real place. I have no way to put it where it belongs. So you have it again.]

Arborio rice is a little bit larger than regular rice. It can withstand the cooking method that abrades the granules removing surface starch in the process. Usually rice is steamed in a tightly closed vessel so most if not all of the moisture added is taken up by the rice granules, but risotto is cooked in an open pot and stirred nearly continuously which results in a good deal of evaporation, concentrating the flavor of whatever liquid is used. If the rice was stirred only at the end of cooking, then the softened rice granules would break apart rather than have their surface layers continuously removed to form a silken sauce. 

The cooking liquid is heated first and kept heated. The rice is fried in a small amount of oil, a step that some Italian cooks insist on to prepare the granules for the imminent abuse, I suppose. They claim it has a beneficial effect but I am uncertain what that is exactly. I comply in deference to their authority. Here I was distracted briefly with setting up a shot and the rice browned more than intended. The heated cooking liquid is added in increments.

Here the liquid is six cups of chicken broth, 3+1/2 cups is homemade broth which is fairly strong on its own, plus 2 + 1/2 cups commercial broth which is fairly weak and heavily salted. So the broth combination is diluted with one cup of water and heated in a pot, that's seven cups chicken broth heated to add incrementally, plus 1/2 cup white wine added directly to the hot pot with rice. The wine boiled violently and evaporated off immediately. 







I read everywhere that the process is time consuming, but I do not find it so. Attention to the pot is divided, split between other tasks. Two sausages are squeezed from their casing, and two slices of onion are diced. Parmigiano cheese is grated, and dome basil is clipped from the Aerogarden. I wish I would have thought of mushrooms, that would have been good too. Oddly,  chile flakes did not occur to me. The dish is fantastic the way it is, but anything at all can go into it. Mario Batali wrote in his book that often he prefers the cooking liquid to be water. His pictures show risotto as soup. 






All the liquid was taken up. This is the empty pot shot through the steam of the risotto in another pot on another burner directly in front of it. The idea is to have some chew left to the granules, the cook will want to avoid rice-mush. Harod McGee writes that restaurants prepare rice for risotto the usual way short of done, then store the rice refrigerated. The cold storage allows the rice starch to firm imparting more resiliency than if the rice were fully cooked then rewarmed. Then right before serving the rice is reheated and finished with hot broth and enrichments.






Previous risottos:

3.  Risotto.
5.  Risotto.
  


Duck blueberry mushroom risotto



I noticed Anne Burrell pull a container like this of chicken stock from her refrigerator. It is an odd container to store one's own chicken stock and I realized she and other chefs are doing what I recently discovered in the frozen cabinets at Tony's market. Their staff prepares this and other stocks, chicken being the most reasonably priced. So far I bought four, maybe five, and I resolved this really is the way to go, a much better deal than the cartons and the best part, made right there. 


Oliver's duck/blueberry sausage from previous sausage and scrambled egg photoset. Gentle, the trick is not overcook it.



I do not have proper Arborio rice on hand so Japanese short-grain rice is substituted, among the worst substitutions possible, but I am certain I can pull this off. With vigorous stirring the rice does slough surface starch and keeps doing that  and it does form a rich starchy sauce,  and it does absorb liquid like nobody's business and that absorption can be controlled by cooling, then by adding more hot liquid to loosen, loosen enough to accept cheese, but even if it didn't form a rich thick sauce I could turn rice grains to powder and add that by the teaspoon and achieve the same thing. As it is, feta cheese compensates nicely for this short-grain rice's starchy shortcomings and I am pleased with the result. 


Additional blueberries to augment the blueberries already in the sausages. 


Whoever heard of blueberries in risotto? I might just now have invented a new thing.


It really should sweep the globe. 

It looks almost like oatmeal but it tastes nothing like it.

* bland rice
* butter
* chile flakes (to alter the bland rice)
* dry mustard
* chicken stock homemade in someone else's professional kitchen. Two units.
* parmigiano-reggiano and feta cheese
* duck/blueberry/pork sausage
* mushrooms
* oregano
* blueberries

No onions. No garlic. No beer nor wine nor alcohol. No bay, cumin, cilantro, nor basil. No tomato. No olives. No cream, no olive oil. No sweet/sour thing going on, nothing bitter. 

Simple, straightforward, unhallenging, yet nothing mundane pedestrian nor ordinary. I immediately want more, and it's right there still hot.

Fried eggs, spinach, risotto, bacon




Scrounged breakfast, leftover risotto, frozen spinach. But it's not really breakfast, and it's not lunch either, and it's not a proper dinner, so there you go. 

Risotto with broccoli and mushrooms


It's as if he knows what he's doing.

And yet he did it all wrong, we watched him.

I say disqualification. This is outrageous.

And yet it is risotto. And it is very good too. Better than the others. I say pass him to the next level.

I say kick him out.




Arborio rice dumped from the chutes at Whole Foods and stored at home in mislabeled jars to vex kitchen interlopers.  

Risotto made the steamed rice way, then stirred at length, there is no getting out of stirring, either throughout or all at once at the end, either way the point is to knock off the outer surface of starch to form a sauce with additional liquid without brutalizing and breaking apart the rice grains. 

Grated Parmigiano is added at the end to finish so the sauce is made more liquid to compensate for the thickness caused by melted cheese to retain a wet loose sauce texture and to avoid the whole mass tightening up, which it will do as it cools. 

Risotto, duck breast


Risotto, it is the tale of two pots. These two pots start out exactly the same but eventually one pot ends up with everything and the other pot ends up with nothing. Just like in the Bible. But don't ask me what all that means. What, do I look like a biblical theologian over here? 

Pot 1:


Butter and olive oil just as with pasta and then some smashed garlic and dehydrated onion flakes because at this moment I do not have any real onions and that is an intolerable dearth. 

Simultaneously chicken stock is heated in another pot. This is commercial chicken stock so it's salty. Eventually a considerable volume of chicken stock will be absorbed, evaporated, and concentrated into the rice so for all these reasons the stock is diluted with water first by a good 25% to 35%. A full thirty-two ounces of liquid was taken up by 1 level cup of Arborio rice, and then an additional two cups plain water after the thirty-two ounces of diluted broth was gone. So you can see how flavor is concentrated and how over concentration is avoided.

Pot 2:

Pot 1:


The rice is stirred around regularly if not continuously which knocks off the surface starch and thickens the cooking liquid. 


This is the duck breast prepared earlier. It is already sliced, but those slices dried a little so fresh slices were cut off the remaining lump.



Apparently the unsightly hole is a vein and not a shot hole.



Pot 1:

Eventually one cup of Arborio rice absorbed over 48 ounces liquid. The aim is for the mixture to be this wet then further thickened with the addition of hard cheese. Judging the amount of wetness to finished rice is a bit of a trick and something of a preference. So far I've seen very dry and very wet risottos. I prefer the wet risottos. 

Risotto



A Short Tale of Two Rices

Well, one type is good for risotto and the other one isn't.

The End

On the left, a good all-purpose short grain rice. On the right, larger starchier, Arborio rice, great for risotto. 





The problem with risotto is it messes two pots and a pan. 

This 1 + 1/2 cups of Arborio rice took up six measured cups of chicken stock.

Previous risottos:

Risotto
Risotto
Risotto with butternut squash
Fried eggs breakfast with risotto
Arborio risotto

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