Lox on sourdough, scrambled egg


A while ago I discovered by accident a technique for creamy scrambled eggs that surpassed anything I had previously. This was quite an epiphany because I come from a egg-abusive household. My family's idea of scrambled eggs is to fry them so thoroughly that all trace of moisture is evaporated and the eggs tighten up so firmly they amount to another vulcanized substance altogether. The sequence goes like this:

raw --> cooked --> overcooked --> impossibly overcooked --> ridiculously abused --> done. 

This approach is on much lower heat and whisked continuously so that cold butter is slowly incorporated, as melted butter is slowly incorporated into a Hollandaise sauce except a lot less of it. It is finished with the addition of crème fraiche which provides the acid portion that lemon provides in an actual Hollandaise. The trick, and there is a trick, is to continuously remove the pot from the heat as soon as anything noticeable happens. The whole point is to avoid the formation of curds. You can see this happening as you whisk so pull off the pot and continue whisking off the heat so that the egg solidifies as a sauce and not as a pile of curds and then return to the heat and continue the thickening. The sequence goes like this:

raw --> sort of perhaps a little bit thicker --> seems like it's thickening --> yeah sure, it's getting thicker --> by golly we're on to something here --> well I'll be doggone, this is actually working --> this would make a good sauce --> hey look! I can control how thick this gets --> it's starting to stand up on its own --> I can probably stop now --> done. 

Save for the finish, salt, pepper, tarragon, chervil, basil, chives, whatever. Especially salt. Salt early in the whisking process can cause the eggs to stay liquid, so save it for last. 

I looked at a dozen YouTube videos searching for something that matched this approach. All I can say is, there are a lot of truly horrible scrambled eggs out there. I weep for my country for they know not what they do. Even the chefs are creating egg curds on excessive heat. And then at length I encountered my nemesis, Gordon Ramsay. Finally! One person out of all those housewives, husbands, cooks, and chefs, describes precisely the technique I landed on by accident -- a failed sauce. Here is Gordon Ramsay on too much coffee and on YouTube describing scrambled eggs. I urge you to try this method, it will change permanently your scrambled egg life. He also shows you a very simple and quite elegant vegetable accompaniment. I notice he prefers sourdough too, although he toasts it, which I never do to mine. Amusingly, he burns his toast. Oddly, none of the commenters over there pick up that this is basically a very thick sauce, specifically, a Hollandaise variation. 

1 comment:

Rob said...

James Beard and (crediting Beard) Mark Bittman also advocate the low temperature approach to scrambling eggs. And if you're lucky enough to have sous vide capability, about 18 minutes at 167°F (after combining the eggs with butter, cream and a sprinkling of Parmesan) yields the most custardy and delicious eggs this side of the River Nile (ht to Big Daddy in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof).

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